Lake Louise / Plain of Six Glaciers / Lake Agnes - Banff, AB

September 25, 2019

When Andy told me we were hiking up to potentially two teahouses in the mountains I was, at first, skeptical. I suspected we'd probably see a whole bunch of people because it sounded like a cute little spot near two lakes that are hugely popular on social media. I was also worried that it wouldn't be a very challenging hike because of it's popularity and I really wanted to burn a bunch of calories so I could earn my fondue dinner at The Grizzly House in town that night.

At the ranger station where we paid for our park pass after getting a parking ticket, the ranger recommended we get to the lake early to secure a parking spot. She told us the Lake Moraine parking lot typically fills up by 6am every day. Since Lake Louise is just down a ways from that lot, we were paranoid and arrived at the Lake Louise parking lot by 6am. There was still quite a bit of parking when we arrived. Sign boards for Lake Moraine indicated the upper lot was already full. We'll have to visit that lake another time and would probably take the shuttle.

The Lake Louise parking lot is paved and has a nice building with restrooms open to the public. Armed with our headlamps and bear spray, we found our way to the lake. It's a super short walk from the parking lot and I think a lot of people just go to take photos of the lake then leave, but what a shame to miss the incredible hikes past the lake! I bet it was beautiful during sunrise, but we didn't have time to wait for light if we wanted to be the first on the trail (hence the bear spray) and first to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse.

Just before sunrise at the lake. Attempted picture with phone in low light, which turned out alright!

The trails are straightforward and good leg burners. Plenty of signs to lead every which way. We were headed straight to the top, but kept looking back at the beautiful view. With the sun rising and with each gain in elevation, Lake Louise became smaller and more turquoise in color. A couple early hikers were catching up with us, so we picked up the pace.

Looking back on the way up

After a few switchbacks we made it to a rest area with a couple picnic tables and an info board with an image labeling glaciers and points of interest as seen from the courtyard. From the courtyard there were several paths - one to the toilets, a path to continue to the Plain of Six Glaciers Lookout, and a path to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. We made good time and since the teahouse didn't open until 9am, we hung out in the courtyard until then.

At 8:45am we walked up the path to the teahouse and seated ourselves on the ground floor.

Eagerly awaiting hot bev and scone.

We realized the balcony was open, so we re-seated ourselves upstairs for an even nicer view. The teahouse is cash only with a simple but sufficient menu. As we were one of the three couples on the balcony, service was quick and friendly. Andy and I had tea (cream of earl grey and truffle hazelnut from Banff Ave Tea Co.) and tender house-made scones served with butter and jam. Everything is made in the cabin or trekked up by the women who work there. They work 5 day rotations and all materials and trash are backpacked in/out.

"I am Bea. I drink tea. Won't you dance around with me?"

With our bellies full of hot tea, we left the teahouse and continued our hike to the top of the Plain of Six Glaciers.

It was very windy and cold the farther up we went

Of course my photo photos will not do this place justice. We were but tiny humans and a lot higher up than it appears in these pictures which makes the area look flat. From here it was also evident how much of the glaciers had receded over time :(

That deep gorge between Mt. Victoria and Mt. Lefroy is known as "The Deathtrap"

At 9598', Abbott Pass Hut is the 2nd highest permanent structure in all of Canada (just below red arrow).

We headed back down the trail after taking pictures and getting smacked around by the wind. Doing good on time we decided to make it a longer hike and took a detour to the second more popular teahouse at Lake Agnes. From Lake Louise it's a quicker and easier hike than making the trek to Plain of Six Glaciers, but it's not nearly as quaint and it was very crowded when we arrived. However, there is a lot of seating both indoors and out. We did not stop for more tea but enjoyed some time at the lake.

Andy is a good model. Here, we are close to the bottom flight of stairs to Lake Agnes Teahouse.

Lake Agnes Teahouse

Lake Agnes and larches. Windy day and choppy water.

The hike back down was easy breezy. We took a different route through the forest. It was cool to see the turquoise water through the trees.

Lake Louise peaking through the trees.

On the way down we passed by a small lake or pond and a few people on horseback. Back at Lake Louise the area was swarming with people relaxing, taking pictures, or taking a stroll. What a pretty place.

Lake Bourgeau - Banff, AB

September 24, 2019

There's really no better way to celebrate the end of Summer and the first week of Autumn than a week camping in Banff. I'd never been - only seen pictures and heard stories of this magical place.

But boy, was this the week to be there. The weather was perfect (warm days in town with snow at higher elevations and cold nights in our toasty tent) and there were few crowds, if any. We were only one of maybe five tent campers at Tunnel Mountain Campground II which, by the way, is like a car camping hotel. Free warm showers, flushing toilets, sinks for washing dishes, and clean. Soooo clean.

With only two days planned for hiking, it was difficult to choose which two to do! We decided our first hike would be to Lake Bourgeau (~11mi RT) with the possibility of climbing up to Harvey Pass depending on weather. Conveniently Lake Bourgeau trailhead is just off Hwy 1 about 20 minutes from camp. We were the first to arrive at the trailhead, about 20 minutes before sunrise. There are two toilets and a small lot to park which should be paved now.

If you're familiar with Banff National Park there are fences, tunnels, and overpasses along the Trans-Canada Hwy to help animals cross the roads safely. Because Lake Bourgeau trailhead is just off the hwy, we had to enter the trail through a gate in to the Raptor Cage as Andy would say.

It was dark, so we waited for actual sunrise before heading in

I assume this trail is quite popular in the summer. It's very wide and well maintained. You really start gaining elevation towards the last half of the hike, but I enjoy the climb. There are a few stream crossings with the help of nicely built bridges, gabions, or by good old fashioned rock and log hopping.

 

In my opinion, Fall is the best time of year to hike. It's cooler out, less bugs, less people, and the colors are breathtaking.

#larchlover

Stepping stones on the path as Andy approaches the lake 

I packed several jackets for this hike - rain/wind jacket, insulated vest, fleece jacket, insulated jacket. I hiked up in my vest and fleece and peeled them off as needed. Once we arrived at the lake and stopped for lunch it got breezy and started snowing so I put on my insulated and rain jackets to stay toasty while we huddled between the rocks to eat and shelter us from the wind.

 

Brrr! Bundling up at the lake

Because of the clouds the color of the lake water was not as vibrant as it could've been. We had the whole place to ourselves, though.


Too windy to eat on the rock

Lake Bourgeau

Looking up, we could see that Harvey Pass was freshly dusted with snow. Not wanting to be the first to forge ahead on the slippery Pass, we decided to frolic around the lake a while longer before heading back down.

It was a while before we saw any one else on the trail. We ran into a dozen or so people while we hiked down. To me, it's always worth it to get up early and be the first to the top. It's a peacefulness that can be rare nowadays.

Otter Falls

July 21, 2019

I love this hike. It's easy to get to thanks to the pristinely paved Middle Fork Rd, there's plenty of parking, and it seems to be one of the less popular ones off this road so you'll avoid crowds (one of the reasons I refuse to do Mailbox Peak). It's a perfect hike on a hot, sunny day because it's an easy 12 mile stroll through a shaded secondary forest which probably makes it good on a drizzly day, too. There was plenty of parking at 8:30 am on a sunny Sunday in July. Even more surprising was how empty the lot was when we returned at noon. A NW Forest pass is required for parking. Toilets are available in the lot.

A perfect summer Sunday in the NW

We did this hike with Toby last year and decided to revisit it with Mario this year. Boy, did they have a great time. The trail is relatively flat with minimal elevation gain except for the quick jaunt up the hill to get to the falls. Several creek crossings offer the perfect spot for pups to take a water break and cool off their paws. Turn off to the falls is marked by a large cairn as well as rocks arranged like an arrow on the ground.

Mario's nimble at creek crossings

With Toby leading, we unknowingly hauled ass. It took us 90 minutes to hike 6 miles to our destination. I mean, it helped that Mario was pulling me most of the way. We had the whole lake beach to ourselves with the exception of one small day group way on the other side and another pair tearing down camp at the top of the hill. The bugs weren't bad at all. After a 25 minute lunch break we headed back which took another 90 minutes. I'd say 3 hours for a 12 miler is pretty good considering we weren't rushing at all. Well, maybe Toby was. Overall we only saw a handful of groups on the trail.

Otter Falls

 

Enjoying the sound and views of Taylor River on our hike out

Toby and Mario were definitely tired for the rest of the day, but enjoyed napping and sunbathing at a couple breweries après hike.

No Boat Brewing has an excellent outdoor space

Flycaster Brewing in Kirkland

 

Snuggly sleepy boys on the car ride home

 

Coal Creek Falls

June 22, 2019

Guess who went on their first hike this weekend? Mario did! He ended up being a great trail pup and tired himself out with all the pulling he did in the beginning. Guy couldn't even keep his eyes open on the car ride home.

Good job, Mario!

Toby and I hiked Coal Creek Falls a few years ago (luckily before a surprise windstorm), but I parked at a different trailhead. The one Andy drove to was nice and paved. No pass required to park here. The lot was full so we ended up parking in the empty horse trailer lot since there were no trailers around. If it's really busy I suspect you could easily park along the road to the parking lot, too.

Print outs of the trail system are available at the trail head sign board. You can make this hike as short or as long as you want. I would love to come back here to do a trail run. Paths are well-maintained, well-marked, and wide.

Wide trail. Beware of slugs!

The waterfall was more like a trickle. In fact, as we crossed the bridge we didn't even know we had reached it! We walked past and realized a few minutes later that that was Coal Creek Falls. I thought it was a very nice stroll through the forest and a great intro hike for Mario. In total we hiked about 3 miles.



Walking past the waterfall

Sleepy Mario

 

Diamond Head - Oahu, HI

May 19, 2019

We *finally* made it up to Diamond Head on our third visit to the island. Originally the plan was to catch the sunrise up there, but we love sleep too much. Instead we woke up at 5:30 am and ran from our hotel by Fort Derussy Beach Park all the way to the trail head which added an extra 2.5 - 3 miles. Good thing we decided to sleep in, though, because Diamond Head gates don't open until 6 am. Also, good thing Andy carries cash because entrance fee is $1 per person if you walk in.



Catching sunrises with this guy for 13.5 years

 Unless you're first in line or don't care about being one of those people (hah!), I'd say it's pretty difficult to actually run to the top because there's a line of people trudging up the switchbacks/stairs, and it gets pretty narrow in some areas.

We passed by people of all ages slowly or quickly making their way to the top. I've never been on such a packed hike. It was weird, like I was in line at the store. Definitely not my favorite, but glad I  made it to the top to take in the views and salty breeze.

Paved trail with rails

Views towards the top

More views

Hike to the top was quick. There was a good amount of switchbacks and stairs, but nothing too grueling!

 

Exploring at the top

 

 

Manoa Falls - Oahu, HI

May 17, 2019

Not only were Andy and I in Oahu to celebrate our wedding anniversary in May (we got married at Wai'alea Beach Park), but we were also celebrating the marriage of our two friends with a week-long trip in Hawaii.

...and what's a wedding with friends and family without pre-wedding festivities???

Woohoo!

Hikes around Oahu are great because there's very little effort for a lot of reward. We started the bachelorette celebration with a hike to Manoa Falls just before noon. The well-maintained trail starts at a paved parking lot ($5) with a parking attendant. I found this hike to easily accommodate a group of 8 gals in that it's straightforward and only 1.6 miles RT. As with hiking anywhere, if it's raining the rocks will be slick. Hiking in the rain is awesome in Hawaii because you stay warm. Is this rain? Is this sweat? Who cares!

Lush

Manoa Falls

We saw a fair amount of friendly hikers on the trail, but we were never stuck behind a group of people. At times we had the trail all to ourselves. At the waterfall there are flat areas on the rocks to hang out. We were there for maybe 10 - 15 minutes, took some pictures, then headed back down.

Don't forget to look up!



 

Took us an hour or less to complete the hike. We were in a hurry, though, since we were looking forward to food afterwards!


Muddy Buddies