September 25, 2019
When Andy told me we were hiking up to potentially two teahouses in the mountains I was, at first, skeptical. I suspected we'd probably see a whole bunch of people because it sounded like a cute little spot near two lakes that are hugely popular on social media. I was also worried that it wouldn't be a very challenging hike because of it's popularity and I really wanted to burn a bunch of calories so I could earn my fondue dinner at The Grizzly House in town that night.
At the ranger station where we paid for our park pass after getting a parking ticket, the ranger recommended we get to the lake early to secure a parking spot. She told us the Lake Moraine parking lot typically fills up by 6am every day. Since Lake Louise is just down a ways from that lot, we were paranoid and arrived at the Lake Louise parking lot by 6am. There was still quite a bit of parking when we arrived. Sign boards for Lake Moraine indicated the upper lot was already full. We'll have to visit that lake another time and would probably take the shuttle.
The Lake Louise parking lot is paved and has a nice building with restrooms open to the public. Armed with our headlamps and bear spray, we found our way to the lake. It's a super short walk from the parking lot and I think a lot of people just go to take photos of the lake then leave, but what a shame to miss the incredible hikes past the lake! I bet it was beautiful during sunrise, but we didn't have time to wait for light if we wanted to be the first on the trail (hence the bear spray) and first to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse.
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| Just before sunrise at the lake. Attempted picture with phone in low light, which turned out alright! |
The trails are straightforward and good leg burners. Plenty of signs to lead every which way. We were headed straight to the top, but kept looking back at the beautiful view. With the sun rising and with each gain in elevation, Lake Louise became smaller and more turquoise in color. A couple early hikers were catching up with us, so we picked up the pace.
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| Looking back on the way up |
After a few switchbacks we made it to a rest area with a couple picnic tables and an info board with an image labeling glaciers and points of interest as seen from the courtyard. From the courtyard there were several paths - one to the toilets, a path to continue to the Plain of Six Glaciers Lookout, and a path to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. We made good time and since the teahouse didn't open until 9am, we hung out in the courtyard until then.
At 8:45am we walked up the path to the teahouse and seated ourselves on the ground floor.
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| Eagerly awaiting hot bev and scone. |
We realized the balcony was open, so we re-seated ourselves upstairs for an even nicer view. The teahouse is cash only with a simple but sufficient menu. As we were one of the three couples on the balcony, service was quick and friendly. Andy and I had tea (cream of earl grey and truffle hazelnut from Banff Ave Tea Co.) and tender house-made scones served with butter and jam. Everything is made in the cabin or trekked up by the women who work there. They work 5 day rotations and all materials and trash are backpacked in/out.
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| "I am Bea. I drink tea. Won't you dance around with me?" |
With our bellies full of hot tea, we left the teahouse and continued our hike to the top of the Plain of Six Glaciers.
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| It was very windy and cold the farther up we went |
Of course my photo photos will not do this place justice. We were but tiny humans and a lot higher up than it appears in these pictures which makes the area look flat. From here it was also evident how much of the glaciers had receded over time :(
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| That deep gorge between Mt. Victoria and Mt. Lefroy is known as "The Deathtrap" |
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| At 9598', Abbott Pass Hut is the 2nd highest permanent structure in all of Canada (just below red arrow). |
We headed back down the trail after taking pictures and getting smacked around by the wind. Doing good on time we decided to make it a longer hike and took a detour to the second more popular teahouse at Lake Agnes. From Lake Louise it's a quicker and easier hike than making the trek to Plain of Six Glaciers, but it's not nearly as quaint and it was very crowded when we arrived. However, there is a lot of seating both indoors and out. We did not stop for more tea but enjoyed some time at the lake.
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| Andy is a good model. Here, we are close to the bottom flight of stairs to Lake Agnes Teahouse. |
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| Lake Agnes Teahouse |
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| Lake Agnes and larches. Windy day and choppy water. |
The hike back down was easy breezy. We took a different route through the forest. It was cool to see the turquoise water through the trees.
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| Lake Louise peaking through the trees. |
On the way down we passed by a small lake or pond and a few people on horseback. Back at Lake Louise the area was swarming with people relaxing, taking pictures, or taking a stroll. What a pretty place.
