Lake Louise / Plain of Six Glaciers / Lake Agnes - Banff, AB

September 25, 2019

When Andy told me we were hiking up to potentially two teahouses in the mountains I was, at first, skeptical. I suspected we'd probably see a whole bunch of people because it sounded like a cute little spot near two lakes that are hugely popular on social media. I was also worried that it wouldn't be a very challenging hike because of it's popularity and I really wanted to burn a bunch of calories so I could earn my fondue dinner at The Grizzly House in town that night.

At the ranger station where we paid for our park pass after getting a parking ticket, the ranger recommended we get to the lake early to secure a parking spot. She told us the Lake Moraine parking lot typically fills up by 6am every day. Since Lake Louise is just down a ways from that lot, we were paranoid and arrived at the Lake Louise parking lot by 6am. There was still quite a bit of parking when we arrived. Sign boards for Lake Moraine indicated the upper lot was already full. We'll have to visit that lake another time and would probably take the shuttle.

The Lake Louise parking lot is paved and has a nice building with restrooms open to the public. Armed with our headlamps and bear spray, we found our way to the lake. It's a super short walk from the parking lot and I think a lot of people just go to take photos of the lake then leave, but what a shame to miss the incredible hikes past the lake! I bet it was beautiful during sunrise, but we didn't have time to wait for light if we wanted to be the first on the trail (hence the bear spray) and first to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse.

Just before sunrise at the lake. Attempted picture with phone in low light, which turned out alright!

The trails are straightforward and good leg burners. Plenty of signs to lead every which way. We were headed straight to the top, but kept looking back at the beautiful view. With the sun rising and with each gain in elevation, Lake Louise became smaller and more turquoise in color. A couple early hikers were catching up with us, so we picked up the pace.

Looking back on the way up

After a few switchbacks we made it to a rest area with a couple picnic tables and an info board with an image labeling glaciers and points of interest as seen from the courtyard. From the courtyard there were several paths - one to the toilets, a path to continue to the Plain of Six Glaciers Lookout, and a path to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. We made good time and since the teahouse didn't open until 9am, we hung out in the courtyard until then.

At 8:45am we walked up the path to the teahouse and seated ourselves on the ground floor.

Eagerly awaiting hot bev and scone.

We realized the balcony was open, so we re-seated ourselves upstairs for an even nicer view. The teahouse is cash only with a simple but sufficient menu. As we were one of the three couples on the balcony, service was quick and friendly. Andy and I had tea (cream of earl grey and truffle hazelnut from Banff Ave Tea Co.) and tender house-made scones served with butter and jam. Everything is made in the cabin or trekked up by the women who work there. They work 5 day rotations and all materials and trash are backpacked in/out.

"I am Bea. I drink tea. Won't you dance around with me?"

With our bellies full of hot tea, we left the teahouse and continued our hike to the top of the Plain of Six Glaciers.

It was very windy and cold the farther up we went

Of course my photo photos will not do this place justice. We were but tiny humans and a lot higher up than it appears in these pictures which makes the area look flat. From here it was also evident how much of the glaciers had receded over time :(

That deep gorge between Mt. Victoria and Mt. Lefroy is known as "The Deathtrap"

At 9598', Abbott Pass Hut is the 2nd highest permanent structure in all of Canada (just below red arrow).

We headed back down the trail after taking pictures and getting smacked around by the wind. Doing good on time we decided to make it a longer hike and took a detour to the second more popular teahouse at Lake Agnes. From Lake Louise it's a quicker and easier hike than making the trek to Plain of Six Glaciers, but it's not nearly as quaint and it was very crowded when we arrived. However, there is a lot of seating both indoors and out. We did not stop for more tea but enjoyed some time at the lake.

Andy is a good model. Here, we are close to the bottom flight of stairs to Lake Agnes Teahouse.

Lake Agnes Teahouse

Lake Agnes and larches. Windy day and choppy water.

The hike back down was easy breezy. We took a different route through the forest. It was cool to see the turquoise water through the trees.

Lake Louise peaking through the trees.

On the way down we passed by a small lake or pond and a few people on horseback. Back at Lake Louise the area was swarming with people relaxing, taking pictures, or taking a stroll. What a pretty place.

Lake Bourgeau - Banff, AB

September 24, 2019

There's really no better way to celebrate the end of Summer and the first week of Autumn than a week camping in Banff. I'd never been - only seen pictures and heard stories of this magical place.

But boy, was this the week to be there. The weather was perfect (warm days in town with snow at higher elevations and cold nights in our toasty tent) and there were few crowds, if any. We were only one of maybe five tent campers at Tunnel Mountain Campground II which, by the way, is like a car camping hotel. Free warm showers, flushing toilets, sinks for washing dishes, and clean. Soooo clean.

With only two days planned for hiking, it was difficult to choose which two to do! We decided our first hike would be to Lake Bourgeau (~11mi RT) with the possibility of climbing up to Harvey Pass depending on weather. Conveniently Lake Bourgeau trailhead is just off Hwy 1 about 20 minutes from camp. We were the first to arrive at the trailhead, about 20 minutes before sunrise. There are two toilets and a small lot to park which should be paved now.

If you're familiar with Banff National Park there are fences, tunnels, and overpasses along the Trans-Canada Hwy to help animals cross the roads safely. Because Lake Bourgeau trailhead is just off the hwy, we had to enter the trail through a gate in to the Raptor Cage as Andy would say.

It was dark, so we waited for actual sunrise before heading in

I assume this trail is quite popular in the summer. It's very wide and well maintained. You really start gaining elevation towards the last half of the hike, but I enjoy the climb. There are a few stream crossings with the help of nicely built bridges, gabions, or by good old fashioned rock and log hopping.

 

In my opinion, Fall is the best time of year to hike. It's cooler out, less bugs, less people, and the colors are breathtaking.

#larchlover

Stepping stones on the path as Andy approaches the lake 

I packed several jackets for this hike - rain/wind jacket, insulated vest, fleece jacket, insulated jacket. I hiked up in my vest and fleece and peeled them off as needed. Once we arrived at the lake and stopped for lunch it got breezy and started snowing so I put on my insulated and rain jackets to stay toasty while we huddled between the rocks to eat and shelter us from the wind.

 

Brrr! Bundling up at the lake

Because of the clouds the color of the lake water was not as vibrant as it could've been. We had the whole place to ourselves, though.


Too windy to eat on the rock

Lake Bourgeau

Looking up, we could see that Harvey Pass was freshly dusted with snow. Not wanting to be the first to forge ahead on the slippery Pass, we decided to frolic around the lake a while longer before heading back down.

It was a while before we saw any one else on the trail. We ran into a dozen or so people while we hiked down. To me, it's always worth it to get up early and be the first to the top. It's a peacefulness that can be rare nowadays.